S30V is not difficult to sharpen; it is simply a very hard-wearing steel. It will take some time to touch up. There are no special tools needed for sharpening S30V blades.
Blades can be sharpened with ordinary metal files, but electric or orbital power tools make the job go faster. Because S30V blades are so hard, only high-quality files made from diamond or cubic boron nitride (CBN) material will do the job properly. You should also use cold water when cleaning your knives.
New York City's Museum of Modern Art has three sets of S30V blades on display: one straight razor, one pen knife, and one utility knife. The museum acquired the razors in 1978 and the other two sets in 1983. All the blades are still functional.
In conclusion, S30V is not difficult to sharpen but it does require special tools. Only high-quality files will do the job properly. Waterproofing oil may be used to maintain lubricity on the file surface. CBN files will cut through even the hardest materials like bone without scratching.
S30V contains a lot of carbide (mostly vanadium carbides, I believe, which are extremely hard). That's one of the reasons it's able to maintain a competitive advantage for so long. That is why sharpening on softer honing surfaces, such as Arkansas stones, is difficult. S30V and related steels respond well to diamond hones. They can also be sharpened with medium-grit sandpaper.
However, due to their hardness, they require special techniques for sharpening. The first problem you will encounter when sharpening S30V is that its edge tends to wander. This is because the edge doesn't go all the way through the cut like it does with harder steels like D2 or even S35V. The second problem is that it takes a lot of time to get into the right cutting angle since there's no relief from the surface tension that holds thinner sections of the blade straight.
Because of these difficulties, S30V blades are usually sharpened by professional knife makers who have the appropriate equipment to do so. Otherwise, they will wear out prematurely.
Although S35VN is a somewhat hard steel, it can be honed with almost any common sharpening instrument. We'll go over our favorite ways below, but any sharpening instrument, such as a leather strop, ceramic rod, tiny sharpening stone, or other sharpening tool, would suffice.
There are two main techniques for sharpening S35VN knives: stropping and grinding. With either method, start by cleaning the knife under cold water to remove any factory-imprinted oils or stains. Next, hone the edge using a sandpaper block wrapped in leather, fine grit paper, or even your skin if you're brave enough! Finally, test out your knife's cutting ability by trying some tomato slices on your kitchen floor. If there are no marks on the floor, then you're ready to use your knife!
Stropping is the traditional way of sharpening a knife. Using a piece of soft leather, begin by rubbing the heel of your hand against the sharpened edge of the blade. Then, using only your thumb, press the leather against the still-sharp blade top while drawing the knife across the leather from one end to the other. Continue doing this until you have a nice, sharp edge. Be sure to always hold the knife by the handle, not the point!
Grinding is the modern way of sharpening a knife.
Sharpness Knives are one of the applications for 8Cr13Mov. Its stainless steel hardness of 8cr13mov makes sharpening simple and convenient. A sharper knife is a handy instrument for cutting. It can be used for slicing, dicing, and mincing meat, vegetables, and fruit.
Although 8Cr13Mov is harder than 1090 carbon steel, it can be sharpened using standard kitchen knives. The blade should be free of dirt and oil before sharpening. Use a stone or sandpaper to restore its razor-sharp edge.
There are two ways to sharpen a knife: wet and dry. Wet sharpening requires cleaning the blade first in order to remove any oil that may prevent it from getting sharp again. Water is then applied to the surface of the blade while pressure is applied through a sharpening stone or by hand. The water washes away the ground-out material so that only fresh rock is exposed when the blade is re-sharpened.
Dry sharpening is done with a sharpening steel. This tool has a single, extremely hard, smooth section that's designed to do the sharpening work without removing any of the metal. The knife is placed on the steel and rotated back and forth until the entire surface is sharpened.
The M1 bayonet was not honed extensively at the manufacture; the edge is not "dull," but it is also not very sharp. This also varies since the final shape was done partially by hand and will differ depending on which worker conducted the final shaping and finishing. The M1 bayonet was designed to be used with a fixed blade knife so its edge was not critical.
Although not highly polished, the M1 bayonet does have a fairly good finish. It is hard to tell exactly how sharp they were because of all the handling that these knives had undergone over the years but based on their appearance alone we can say that they were likely more than effective for their time.
Modern weapons are generally manufactured with greater attention to detail and quality control standards than those made during World War II. However, this doesn't mean that they don't have any problems or issues that need to be addressed. One issue that many modern users complain about is the lack of sharpness of the M1 bayonet. While not extremely dull, it's not very sharp either. The edge doesn't go straight across the face of the weapon like a knife would but rather has a slight angle which allows it to fit in between the guard and receiver of the rifle it is attached to.
During World War II, manufacturers produced large numbers of weapons using standardized parts.