Connect the short wire to the load terminal after screwing a wire cap onto the spliced junction. Connect the ground wires to the ground terminal using the same method. You don't need a pigtail when you get to the white wires. Simply twist and cap them all together. Don't forget about the other end of the circuit! It's important to connect the black wire at both ends of the circuit.
Connect the white "load" wire to the silver "load" terminal and the black "load" wire to the "hot" brass "load" terminal. Connect your ground wires to the GFCI's green grounding nut. Fold the wires into the box, taking care not to let the grounding wires hit any exposed "line" or "load" terminals. If you have access to a circuit panel, connect the black "load" line to the metal "load" bushing on an available circuit breaker. This will provide a direct path back to the main line if you are using a portable generator as your source of electricity.
If you don't have access to a circuit panel, then you will need to either use two separate circuits or install a dedicated generator outlet. Separate circuits are required because GFCIs only protect against electrical faults in live current carrying conductors. If you connect a load to both the hot and neutral sides of a GFCI, it will still be able to function even when some voltage is present on both lines. Directly connecting a generator to a GFCI without a special transformer out put won't work because generators can't deliver power over both phases of a circuit at once. However, they can supply power to a single conductor at a time so this method will allow you to safely use a generator as your main source of electricity.
Do not use extension cords with generator outlets. They will expose your users to electric shock hazards if the generator fails for any reason.
To wire this light, just strip the wires going into the box back 1/2 " and put the ends into the appropriate holes. The black wires are connected to the white wires, and the ground wires (bare/green) are connected to the black wires. Make sure that you don't have any other devices using these circuits yet.
When all is said and done, your wiring should look like this:
The photo below shows how I wired this lamp. It's very simple to do - just make sure you use matching colors when connecting wires to terminals. If you're not sure which color goes where, then just trust me when I say that Black + Red = Heat. So make sure you connect the red wire to the black wire with something other than a bare metal connection.
This article explains how to wire lamps, candles, and related accessories in a home theater environment. Although theater lights are different from house lights, the basics of wiring them remain the same. Before starting to wire any lamps, make sure that you turn them off first to prevent an electrical hazard.
Twist all four wires together using a yellow wire nut. Using electrical tape, secure the wire nut to the wires. Wrap the wire nut and the wires with tape. This is not required, but it will provide additional security. Insert the four white wires into the gang box's rear. The black ground wire should be inserted first, then the red wire, followed by the white wire. Secure the white wire to the metal tab on the back of the gang box with silver tape.
This completes one switch out of every gang box installed in your home. It may be necessary to install more than one switch in a gang box for various rooms. For example, one switch controls the main power to a room while another switches off the power to that room when not needed.
Switch boxes are available in standard sizes for most homes. If you need a larger switch box, there are two options: You can purchase one from a local electrician or contractor - these are called "service panels" and they usually measure about 1 by 2 feet. Or you can buy one of these custom-made by a professional woodworker or cabinetmaker. These can cost as much as $5,000 but are worth it if you plan to sell your house and want it to look nice - also good if you plan to move into the house later on.
Prepare two black cables if you've installed two switches in the same electrical box. Connect one end of the 6-inch wire to the first switch's top terminal. To construct a pigtail, twist the other end together with the black wire from the incoming circuit cable and the black wire from the cable heading to the second switch. Finish the connection by wrapping the bare copper ends of each black wire together with tape or glue for safety and to prevent electricity from flowing through these wires.
If you've only installed one switch, connect one end of the 6-inch wire to its top terminal. Then connect the other end of this same wire to the bottom terminal on the second switch. This arrangement will allow both switches to be turned on and off from one control panel.
For a switch loop, prepare two white cables. Connect one end of each cable to opposite terminals on the same switch. The remaining unconnected ends should be routed back to the original switch location. This setup will allow you to close both switches from one side of the room. When you reach another switch in the loop, open both switches from that side too.
The best way to learn how to wire a switch loop is by taking a look at the wiring diagram provided by your electrician when you install the switch boxes. He or she will want to make sure that you don't have any branches cut off inside the walls during construction work.